boas amigos tou com um problema comprei um RR-p38 de 1997 com a caixa partida...
comprei uma usada meti e funciona lindamente...no negocio nao guiei o carro dado ele nao andar...ontem ficou pronto e fui dar uma volta anda lindamente mas tem a luz do abs ligada e dos travões...o carro simplesmente nao trava...tem de se fazer muita força no pedal para travar...nem sequer estanca as rodas...e só trava as rodas da frente....sangrou-se os travoes mas sem efeito...a frente esguicha oleo mas atraz nem ponta...
alguem me consegue ajudar...sou um novo cliente RR pouco percebo destes jipes...ja me falaram em eletrovavulas do abs...de um compressor...outros ja disseram que um simples checkup que ficava a funcionar...caso seja as eletrovavulas ha alguma maneira de eu arranjar isso???ha algum truque??
abraços
ajuda RR P38 ABS
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danielsouza
- caloiro TT
- Mensagens: 7
- Registado: 28 mar 2008 02:46
- Land Rover: Modelo Tipo Motor Ano
- RTI: 0
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fry
- pleno TT
- Mensagens: 587
- Registado: 25 fev 2007 21:08
Olá 
Tenta ler e descobre...
ABS Pump and Accumulator Diagnostics
Troy Wilson , who has had bad experiences with his RR 4.0, offers the following diagnostic procedure for the ABS system. (You can disconnect the EAS pump so as not to confuse it for the sound of the ABS pump running.)
1- Discharge the accumulator by pumping the brake pedal about 30 times with the key OFF.
2- Check fluid levels now that it should have all returned to the reservoir.
3- Look for any external leaks.
4- Without depressing the brake pedal, turn the key on, and see how long the ABS pump runs.
5- Then, sit in the car and listen for about 5 minutes to see if the ABS pump runs again.
If your pump only ran for 3 or 4 seconds after being fully discharged, you probably have a bad accumulator (i.e. not able to take the charge.) If your pump ran for a long time (longer than 15 or 20 seconds), and you don't see any leaks, you probably have a bad/weak pump or check valve. If the pump DID cycle on again during your 5-minute wait, you have some sort of internal leakage (probably a seal, or check-valve). If the pump ran continuously, then you probably have a bad pressure switch that never told it to turn off, or your pump is bad (i.e. producing no pressure, even though it is running.)
Other symptoms and what might cause them:
While driving, if the brake pedal is momentarily hard, and the brake warning light flickers when you stab the brakes quickly, the accumulator may be dying (i.e. charge pressure is low). This happened to Troy, whose dealership couldn't find the problem. He cured it with an accumulator from a wrecked Rover from AAA Small Car World (see the parts and service page). If the pedal is hard all the time, there probably is no power assist. If the pump never cycles, you may have a bad pressure switch (i.e. it never tells the pump to turn on), or the pump is bad. If the pump does cycle, then you might have a bad accumulator, or a (probably internal) leak. The first diagnosis procedure can help you determine which it is. Or, again, the pump could just be bad.
Suggestions for Electrical Diagnosis with Multimeter:
It should be possible to check the wires going into the pump, to determine if the pressure switch is telling the pump to do the right thing or not (eg voltage appears, but the pump doesn't run, etc.) You should also be able to measure resistance across the pump's windings, Watching the pressure switch with a multimeter, in conjunction with de-pressurizing the system as in step 1 above, should give you a clue as to how the system works. Then, you could short contacts at the connector to test the logic of the system, or by shorting contacts at the ABS pump relay to test the pump motor itself. .
Rebuilding the Pump??
Kirk Fisher reports that in his case failure was due to the brushes wearing out, and it should be possible to keep the Rover going by replacing only the brushes. He is looking into this possibility. John Purnell has a good writeup illustrating his pump rebuild job at this link. If anyone has more information on rebuilding the mechanical or electrical parts of the pump, please email me.
ABS Sensor Problems and Repair
In my experience problems with the wheel speed sensors are even more common than with the booster pump. You can often get an "ABS Fault" or (on vehicles with electronic traction control) a "Traction Failure" message from this cause.
The Hall-Effect sensors are located in the hub housing and need to be a certain distance from the reluctor teeth (on the axle) passing under them in order to function properly. They can be subject to dirt intrusion or more commmonly to being lifted out of position (eg by the wiring harness getting hit by off road obstacles). They are just pressed in to their housings and held in place with simple but expensive spring clips. (Photo at right: left rear hub on my RR 4.0SE. Speed sensor is in rubber boot at top left of picture).
Jeff Johnson illustrates this point by relating his experience with ABS sensor problems on his late model Classic: "Another thing I learned was about the front ABS sensors, I had been getting a fault due to the front sensors working out and getting too much space above the CV joint, I would push them down and in a day or two they would be up again. I asked British Pacific about getting new bushings and seals for them, they didn't have bushings listed on the site and I thought I needed new ones. They said the bushings were something they didn't stock because the cost about $48 each and no one ever bought them. He suggested I just replace the seals and see how it did and since they are only $8 each it sounded like a good idea. I put the new seals in and never had a problem since, it's been over two weeks and I've been on rough roads as well as off road and they are perfectly fine now. So it seems that's all they need, the bushings were fine and the new seals hold the sensors in place."
Abraço.
Tenta ler e descobre...
ABS Pump and Accumulator Diagnostics
Troy Wilson , who has had bad experiences with his RR 4.0, offers the following diagnostic procedure for the ABS system. (You can disconnect the EAS pump so as not to confuse it for the sound of the ABS pump running.)
1- Discharge the accumulator by pumping the brake pedal about 30 times with the key OFF.
2- Check fluid levels now that it should have all returned to the reservoir.
3- Look for any external leaks.
4- Without depressing the brake pedal, turn the key on, and see how long the ABS pump runs.
5- Then, sit in the car and listen for about 5 minutes to see if the ABS pump runs again.
If your pump only ran for 3 or 4 seconds after being fully discharged, you probably have a bad accumulator (i.e. not able to take the charge.) If your pump ran for a long time (longer than 15 or 20 seconds), and you don't see any leaks, you probably have a bad/weak pump or check valve. If the pump DID cycle on again during your 5-minute wait, you have some sort of internal leakage (probably a seal, or check-valve). If the pump ran continuously, then you probably have a bad pressure switch that never told it to turn off, or your pump is bad (i.e. producing no pressure, even though it is running.)
Other symptoms and what might cause them:
While driving, if the brake pedal is momentarily hard, and the brake warning light flickers when you stab the brakes quickly, the accumulator may be dying (i.e. charge pressure is low). This happened to Troy, whose dealership couldn't find the problem. He cured it with an accumulator from a wrecked Rover from AAA Small Car World (see the parts and service page). If the pedal is hard all the time, there probably is no power assist. If the pump never cycles, you may have a bad pressure switch (i.e. it never tells the pump to turn on), or the pump is bad. If the pump does cycle, then you might have a bad accumulator, or a (probably internal) leak. The first diagnosis procedure can help you determine which it is. Or, again, the pump could just be bad.
Suggestions for Electrical Diagnosis with Multimeter:
It should be possible to check the wires going into the pump, to determine if the pressure switch is telling the pump to do the right thing or not (eg voltage appears, but the pump doesn't run, etc.) You should also be able to measure resistance across the pump's windings, Watching the pressure switch with a multimeter, in conjunction with de-pressurizing the system as in step 1 above, should give you a clue as to how the system works. Then, you could short contacts at the connector to test the logic of the system, or by shorting contacts at the ABS pump relay to test the pump motor itself. .
Rebuilding the Pump??
Kirk Fisher reports that in his case failure was due to the brushes wearing out, and it should be possible to keep the Rover going by replacing only the brushes. He is looking into this possibility. John Purnell has a good writeup illustrating his pump rebuild job at this link. If anyone has more information on rebuilding the mechanical or electrical parts of the pump, please email me.
ABS Sensor Problems and Repair
In my experience problems with the wheel speed sensors are even more common than with the booster pump. You can often get an "ABS Fault" or (on vehicles with electronic traction control) a "Traction Failure" message from this cause.
The Hall-Effect sensors are located in the hub housing and need to be a certain distance from the reluctor teeth (on the axle) passing under them in order to function properly. They can be subject to dirt intrusion or more commmonly to being lifted out of position (eg by the wiring harness getting hit by off road obstacles). They are just pressed in to their housings and held in place with simple but expensive spring clips. (Photo at right: left rear hub on my RR 4.0SE. Speed sensor is in rubber boot at top left of picture).
Jeff Johnson illustrates this point by relating his experience with ABS sensor problems on his late model Classic: "Another thing I learned was about the front ABS sensors, I had been getting a fault due to the front sensors working out and getting too much space above the CV joint, I would push them down and in a day or two they would be up again. I asked British Pacific about getting new bushings and seals for them, they didn't have bushings listed on the site and I thought I needed new ones. They said the bushings were something they didn't stock because the cost about $48 each and no one ever bought them. He suggested I just replace the seals and see how it did and since they are only $8 each it sounded like a good idea. I put the new seals in and never had a problem since, it's been over two weeks and I've been on rough roads as well as off road and they are perfectly fine now. So it seems that's all they need, the bushings were fine and the new seals hold the sensors in place."
Abraço.
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-----To learn about other people is science, to learn to know yourself is intelligence----
-----To learn about other people is science, to learn to know yourself is intelligence----
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danielsouza
- caloiro TT
- Mensagens: 7
- Registado: 28 mar 2008 02:46
- Land Rover: Modelo Tipo Motor Ano
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Luis Caroço
- caloiro TT
- Mensagens: 7
- Registado: 28 mar 2008 16:53
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danielsouza
- caloiro TT
- Mensagens: 7
- Registado: 28 mar 2008 02:46
- Land Rover: Modelo Tipo Motor Ano
- RTI: 0
ola luis por acaso nao é fussivel....ja tive a ver e estavam todos bons...tambem vi os reles...uma coisa que nao percebo é que o jipe so trava as rodas da frente...fiquei com o jipe e ele tava parado ja algum tempo...e tinha ferrugem nos discos...os da frente tao limpinhos e os de traz ainda tem ferrugem...nao chega oleo atraz...ja limpei o circuito todo mas nada...segunda vou levar o jipe a um mecanico que percebe destes jipes e ver o que se passa...abraço
